Jonathan and I have been visiting the Florida Keys for years…we even got engaged there! The Florida Keys are an archipelago, a chain of islands formed from ancient coral reefs. Stretching about 120 miles, their name is derived from the Spanish word “cayo,” which means “small island.” Known for their easygoing atmosphere, the Keys offer a variety of activities, from scuba diving, snorkeling, and fishing to sampling delectable seafood, enjoying scenic views, and learning about ocean conservation efforts. Although the following list is far from exhaustive, here are a few of our favorite activities, places to eat, and places to stay in the Upper Florida Keys.
Disclosure: This blog contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, we may earn a small commission—at no extra cost to you. All opinions are our own.
JOHN PENNEKAMP CORAL REEF STATE PARK - KEY LARGO
Located in Key Largo, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park is one of our favorite places to visit because of the variety of both recreational and educational activities offered. This state park is unique for being the first underwater park in the United States and also offering a protected area for the only living coral reefs in the Continental U.S. For $8 a vehicle (plus .50 per person), you can traverse three different nature trails (each featuring a different habitat), picnic on the beach, or learn about the area’s history at the Visitor Center’s Maritime Heritage Exhibit.
You can also swim at the park’s two beaches: Cannon Beach and Far Beach. One of Hadassah and Hannah’s favorite activities is snorkeling at Cannon Beach, which gets its name from the fact that artifacts from a 1715 Spanish shipwreck have been placed underwater here and can be viewed by snorkeling just offshore.
For additional fees, you can also rent a boat, experience the reefs via a glass-bottom boat tour, take a snorkel or scuba diving tour, or rent kayaks or paddleboards to explore the mangrove trails. We have kayaked through the mangroves and really enjoyed how peaceful and quiet it was, as well as all the wildlife we spotted. There is enough to do at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park to easily fill a whole day!
CHRIST OF THE ABYSS STATUE - DRY ROCKS REEF
If you are interested in snorkeling or scuba diving during your trip to the Upper Florida Keys, Dry Rocks Reef is a must see. Located about six miles off shore in the Atlantic Ocean, this reef is part of John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and is easily accessible by private boat or as a part of a boat tour. This is a large reef and hosts a variety of different types of coral, such as elkhorn, brain, and star coral, as well as a variety of tropical fish and vibrant sea life, including parrotfish, barracuda, spiny lobster, angelfish, and nurse sharks. It’s possible you may even see a sea turtle! One of the highlights of this reef is viewing the Christ of the Abyss Statue, also known as Christ of the Deep. This bronze statue was gifted to the Underwater Society of America by Italian Egidio Cressi and sits in 25 feet of water.
A few tips for snorkeling at Dry Rocks Reef or any other reef in the Keys – wear sunscreen, and please make sure it is reef safe! Sunscreen is a must for pretty much any outdoor activity in Florida, but when swimming in the ocean, please make sure to use sunscreen that is marked reef safe. Certain chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate are harmful to coral reefs, so look for sunscreens with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as the active ingredients. A few popular reef safe brands include Blue Lizard, Badger, and Thinksport.
Another tip is to bring a snorkel vest or other flotation device. Even if you are a strong swimmer, snorkeling a large reef in choppy water or strong currents can be tiring, and at Dry Rocks Reef in particular you may have to moor far from the Christ of the Abyss Statue. Having a snorkel vest or flotation device allows you to relax and enjoy the stunning underwater world without worrying about growing fatigued.
We also recommend bringing an underwater camera to capture the beautiful reef and wildlife you will see. We did a lot of research before our trip and ended up going with the GoPro Hero 13. It is not the most economical option out there but consistently received the best reviews. We’ve used it not only in the Keys but on other snorkeling trips since, and we really like the video quality, compact design, and how user friendly it is. For kids, we recommend the Ourlife Kids Underwater Camera. Our daughters have used their cameras on multiple snorkeling adventures and enjoy capturing their own pictures.
The last tip is to bring a small bottle of vinegar with you. There’s always a chance of encountering jellyfish while snorkeling, and while most of the time jellyfish stings are a minor annoyance, it’s best to be prepared with vinegar, which helps relieve the pain. When we snorkeled Alligator Reef a couple of years ago during September, it was prime jellyfish season and moon jellyfish were everywhere! Even though their sting is very mild and they are not dangerous, it was disconcerting having to constantly dodge them while snorkeling.
THE PROJECT CENTER - ISLAMORADA
The Project Center is a work in progress and will eventually be home to the Keys’ only marine mammal hospital. It currently hosts a museum where, for $10 a person, you can learn about dolphins, whales, endangered species, and ocean conservation efforts. The museum is not large but is very well done and educational. The girls’ favorite part was the tanks where they got to touch a sea urchin and a Florida lobster. The Project Center also has a lovely gift shop where they sell clothing and eco friendly items such as beeswax food wraps, and they also have an area where you can refill soap and laundry detergent canisters to reduce plastic use. You can learn more about the great work they are doing here.
ROBBIE'S OF ISLAMORADA
Every time we go to the Keys, the girls beg to stop by Robbie’s so they can feed the tarpon. They are well known for this experience, and it is a lot of fun – tarpon can grow to be eight feet and 280 pounds, and will often jump out of the water to get the fish. Just beware of the pelicans that are standing by waiting to steal the fish! Other activities to enjoy at Robbie’s include shopping at their open air market, eating at the Hungry Tarpon Restaurant, renting kayaks, paddleboards, or jet skis, or taking an eco tour, snorkel tour, or glass bottom boat tour. We took a snorkel tour to Alligator Reef in 2023, during which we spotted a multitude of sea life, including parrotfish, a nurse shark, and even two sea turtles! The options are endless, and Robbie’s is definitely worth a stop if you are in Islamorada.
THE TURTLE HOSPITAL - MARATHON
Marathon is technically a Middle Key, but we’re including The Turtle Hospital because it is just south of Robbie’s and definitely worth a visit. We visited with family in 2020 and participated in their educational program, which consisted of a presentation about sea turtles and a behind-the-scenes tour of their facilities. We learned about the different types of sea turtles as well as issues threatening sea turtles, and were able to view the current residents and discover their stories. The program lasted about ninety minutes and the kids were engaged the whole time. To learn more about the work they’re doing and their current patients or to reserve a tour, you can visit their website here.
WHERE TO EAT IN THE UPPER FLORIDA KEYS
THE FISH HOUSE RESTAURANT AND SEAFOOD MARKET
Jonathan and I got engaged at The Fish House, so needless to say we always try to visit when in the Keys! We had taken a day trip down to Bahia Honda to celebrate my birthday, and on the way back to Miami, Jonathan suggested we stop at The Fish House to pick up some of their famous key lime pie. We walked inside to find a table reserved for us. After dinner, our waiter brought out a slice of key lime pie with an engagement ring carefully perched on top of the meringue. Needless to say, that was the best piece of pie I’ve ever had! (I wish I had a digital picture to share, but unfortunately this was before the age of smart phones.)
Aside from sentimental value for us, though, The Fish House Restaurant and Seafood Market offers some of the best seafood in all of the Keys in a fun, laid back atmosphere. One of our favorite dishes is Matecumbe (your choice of fish baked and topped with diced tomatoes, capers, basil, shallots, olive oil and lemon juice). Not a seafood fan? Not to worry, they have non-seafood options as well, including vegetarian entrees. The last time we visited Hannah didn’t feel like fish so she ordered the linguine. It was delicious and she ate the whole plate! Don’t forget to let them know if you happen to be celebrating a birthday–they will bring you a “birthday fish” complete with a candle. Below is a picture of Jonathan’s dad celebrating his recent 75th birthday!
THE SQUARE GROUPER BAR AND GRILL
Located in Islamorada Marina, The Square Grouper Bar and Grill combines a lovely ambiance with scenic views and delectable food. Their dishes are innovative and tasty–some fan favorites include the tuna-avocado eggrolls, flash-fried conch, grouper sandwich, and of course key lime pie! For our vegetarian and vegan friends, they also offer a wide variety of salads and a delicious veggie burger. We love the tasteful, themed decor throughout–they even have octopus-themed sinks in the bathroom. One of our favorite aspects of this restaurant, however, is the view: the outdoor deck overlooks the marina and the girls enjoyed watching the boats come in and out. After lunch, we walked over to the water and spotted a large school of parrotfish and even a nurse shark right from the dock.
Because The Square Grouper is so popular and they do not take reservations, there is often a wait that can exceed 30 minutes. We feel that it is well worth the wait but wanted to mention the possibility of not being seated right away so you can plan accordingly, especially if you are traveling with young kids.
WHERE TO STAY IN THE UPPER FLORIDA KEYS
ATLANTIC BAY RESORT - TAVERNIER KEY
We have stayed at Atlantic Bay Resort multiple times and will undoubtedly be back again. We love this resort’s tropical landscaping, peaceful atmosphere, convenient location, and host of included amenities. They offer a variety of accommodations, from studios with a king bed and kitchenette to two bed-room suites right on the water. Free amenities include kayaks and paddleboards to explore the nearby mangrove island; a sandy beach with games and lounge chairs to enjoy the beautiful sunsets; a pool; and a tiki hut with a gas grill, table, and chairs. You can swim in the water, fish from the dock, or view the wildlife–on our last stay, we saw dolphins and even an American Crocodile, which, unlike the American Alligator, is very rare and only found in South Florida. (What is the difference between American Alligators and American Crocodiles? Learn more here.)
We enjoy the tropical ambiance and plentiful amenities at Atlantic Bay Resort so much that we find it hard to leave–on our last visit, the girls spent hours snorkeling, kayaking, and playing in the sand. We even chose to grill dinner at the tiki hut one night instead of enjoying one of the Keys’ fabulous restaurants so that the kids could spend more time playing at the beach. This resort is perfect for any type of traveler, from families to couples to those celebrating special occasions, and we highly recommend booking a stay during your next Florida Keys vacation.
Did you find this article helpful? Please leave us a comment or click below to share with others!
Sarah
I am the main writer and website designer for Florida Unveiled. I love the parts of Florida visitors don’t often see: the tea-colored water that flows in cypress-laden rivers; the chorus of frogs after a hard rain; the rustle of palmetto as an unseen creature scampers by. Some of my favorite places in Florida are the Everglades, the Keys, Smyrna Dunes Park, Bok Tower Gardens, Paynes Prairie Preserve State Park, and St. Augustine’s Historic District.
